1. I piled into the Sube this morning and headed north. A grade rises out of the Kootenai River as one drives north out of Bonners Ferry. 3 Mile Junction sits on top of the hill and I stopped in at the combination 3 Mile Exxon Station/Convenience Store/Cafe for a delicious breakfast of hash browns, egg, and sourdough toast. It looked to me like this cafe is a crony cafe -- two tables of several men around my age were having coffee, telling stories, laughing, and getting their days under way.
I finished eating and drove just a mile short of the Canadian border. Upon crossing the Moyie River, I turned right on FS Road #2517 and drove about 2.3 miles to the Copper Falls trailhead.
The Forest Service has forged a loop trail at Copper Falls. One can either go straight to the upper overlook and then take a trail down to Copper Creek and see the falls with obstructed views from below or the other way around. The loop trail is short, very well maintained, easy on the legs, and features interpretive signs along the way about the cedars, lark, birch, and other trees in the forest and about the area's ecosystem. I went down below first and enjoyed the mature trees all around me. Copper Creek was running low. When I reached the trail's end, I could see parts of the 150 foot Copper Falls through the branches of the trees along the creek. I marveled at this sight for a while, took some pictures (I'll post them when I return to Kellogg), and then climbed the gentle grade to the upper overlook.
Above me I saw where Copper Creek flows to the top of a stunning rock face and falls straight down in a narrow cascade, forms a pool, and then continues flowing on toward the Moyie River. When I arrived near the overlook, a couple and their very well behaved dog, who had moved two years ago from Arizona to CdA, were at the overlook. I found a place to sit while they took pictures. I stayed out of earshot to respect their privacy, but I could tell they were in awe of Copper Falls by the way they were pointing and smiling and by the awe on their faces. They left the overlook, we exchanged a few words, and then I took my turn admiring this waterfall.
This trail and Copper Falls were so calming and so beautiful that I wished there had been more trail to hike. But, I thought, the genius of this site is that the trailhead is easy to access and the trail is short and gentle enough that it invites people of all ages and ability to spend some time among stately cedars, larches, birches, and other trees and to enjoy the splendid Copper Falls.
2. I left Copper Falls and drove back south to 3 Mile Junction and headed east on Highway 2 into Montana, through the town of Troy, and parked in the huge parking lot for visitors of Kootenai Falls and the Swinging Bridge.
As it flows through Bonners Ferry, the Kootenai River is placid, almost still. But, here, just east of Troy, this wide river encounters rock faces and structures seeming to rise out of the riverbed itself and as a result of these obstructions, there are anywhere from, I'd say, 12-20 waterfalls up and down and across the river. After the river traverses over these rock structures it whirls and foams in great turmoil, creating a picture of fearful power and utter beauty.
Some visitors to this spot went out onto the rocks in the middle of the river uncovered by the water to get closer to all the roiling water and turmoil. One guy had an inflatable kayak and I watched him soar over a small waterfall, spin in the chaos of water at the bottom, and expertly paddle his way out and head on down to other churning spots in the river. Often the river's force turned the kayaker upside down, but he always popped back upright and continued his thrill ride on the Kootenai River.
I, on the other hand, kept my distance from the river. Unlike the guy fishing from the flat ledge overlooking the tumult below, I stayed back, felt nervous watching the people out on the rocks, the kayaker, and the guy fishing and eventually returned to the trail and made my way to the Swinging Bridge.
The Swinging Bridge is a suspension single track bridge crossing the Kootenai River. It spans high over the river and is a most impressive structure. I walked out about ten yards on the bridge, but, I don't know, I just wasn't in the mood to walk on a swaying bridge over a powerful river many, many feet below. So, I admired the bridge, admired the power of the river, but did not cross over.
3. Back in Bonners Ferry, I returned to my living quarters, rested, treated my big toe, and decided to go to Mi Pueblo. I had checked out their menu -- it is posted on a cork board in my living quarters -- and had decided ahead of time to try their crab enchiladas and a margarita. I hadn't eaten since breakfast and this meal filled me comfortably and I returned to where I'm staying and was pretty keyed up from what I'd done during the day and in anticipation of heading to Canada in the morning and had trouble settling down to sleep. Eventually, I did.
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